How can we describe the journey that we have just undertaken when we stand awestruck? The Himalayas have left us speechless by their stunning beauty, indescribable scenery and incredible people. Each day dawned with a new adventure, and a magnificent landscape waiting to unfold beyond each corner.
I don't even know where to begin, so I guess the beginning will do. The trip began with a taste of local culture as our guide took us to the bus station and ordered us the local flavour, which consisted of a ring of sugary honey nestled between two dough flatbreads and dipped in hot curry. I thought I would breathe fire if I spoke while eating, as my tastebuds need to develop an appreciation for hot foods. We road on the roof of our bus to get to the start of our trek, ducking to escape the tree branches and electrical wires that swooped close to our heads. The views of rice fields and mountains surrounded us and captivated our attention.
Our 18 day trek began with stunning views of hills a multitude of vibrant greens as rice fields staggered up the hillsides, taking over every spare piece of land. The tiered agriculture was accompanied by a complex irrigation system and little villages set on the sides of hills. The richness in the colours and the natural beauty left us with smiles on our faces as we hiked through this incredibly beautiful countryside. Every moment left us taking a mental picture, trying to memorize each new sight.
We hiked over every form of bridge from a dilapidated old bamboo bridge that was now no more than a couple of sticks lashed together and all manner of suspension bridges. Some of the bridges swayed precariously under our feet. One we had to race across as we ran ahead of a donkey train to cross the bridge in time - THE DONKEYS ARE COMING - there is only enough room at the edge of the path for one of us and the river is miles below, however as we felt that we had reached the safety of the bridge before the donkey train our guide started running across the swaying bridge, urging us to do the same as another donkey train approached from the other side and threatened to sandwich us in the middle. Our only casualty was the top our water bag that fell to the depths of the river below. There were many donkey trains along the trek, their approach could be heard by the dinging of the bells around their necks. They were incredible, with heavy loads and treacherous routes to walk along. A tip for those hiking with donkeys - always stay on the mountain side, because they don't stop for you or walk around you and most times there is barely room for both of you!
We followed the river for days, it was a grey/blue colour that intensified every day. Sometimes we trekked high above the river on paths, or ledges and other times we descended to walk along the river bed. Our second day was the day of waterfalls as we saw 30 or more waterfalls, cascading down the high mountain walls, variety of sizes and heights. We traversed many a waterfall crossing, balancing precariously on the rocks as we leaped to the opposite shore. Greg and our guide, went into a stand of bamboo trees one day and emerged with trekking sticks that they carved out of the bamboo, that definitely helped steady us across the crossing, however, there were still some soakers to be had. A couple of the waterfalls, were so intense we felt their spray as we hiked past.
Each day was so different from the day before. We left the rice fields and trekked into the higher alpine regions with pine trees and stunning views of white capped peaks! I think many days our jaws would drop as we turned a corner to face another view of some of the highest mountains in the world. Each view promised that there could not be a more impressive view, that we had seen the most incredible sights and yet each day brought new and somehow more impressive sights. We saw 3 of the 8 highest mountains in the world - all over 8000m and many that were between 6000 and 9000m. Different shapes and times of the day cast a new take on these majestic peaks that towered around us, however we were quickly informed that they were mere hills. In Nepal there are three types of mountains/hill: under 4000m is JUST a hill, 4000-6000 m is a mere peak and over 6000 is a mountain. The beauty and wonder is indescribable!
Each day would involve some combination of steep ascents, or gradual ascents followed by some long descents back to the river floor or down huge elevation changes or just a gradual ascent and descents along the mountain paths. At one point we descended to farmland with buck wheat fields and horses, as if we were in a crater of the mountains. Each day trekking consisted of reminding ourselves to keep an eye on the path as it was so hard to tear our eyes from the awe inspiring views surrounding us. The paths could be narrow, but they also contained huge donkey patties and dodging the fresh patties kept our eyes on the paths. At one point the entire path was covered in manure - spread by the farmers and about 1 foot high and 6 feet wide, there was nowhere to go but over it!
While hiking through the forest area on a wide path, we broke through the trees and came upon a spectacular site. A huge half dome mountain rose before us. With glaciers glistening at it's flat peak, the dome curved around with smooth sides forming what could be an incredible amphitheatre.
Along the way we needed to stop to acclimatize to the high altitudes. We would hike higher during the day and then come back down to sleep at night to help our bodies adjust. We decided instead of taking a full day to acclimatize, we would hike to the next town and stay the night, and it was the best decision we ever made. We stayed in a little town with 2 guest houses of the 5 buildings in town, the views were unbelievable and we felt as though we were on the top of the world.
Our acclimatization hikes consisted of the following adventures. The first day we trekked along a steep path
and as we ascended the winds picked up in heavy gusts. We weaved our way past a stupa and up the side of a hill. Finally after an hour we reached a temple at 4000m, the rock had been carved out and a Lama of 93 years of age, lived in the side of the mountain. People from all around came and sought his advice. The path is so steep he can no longer manage it to head down the hill so he stays permanently. We sat with him and had a cup of tea and he blessed up for our trek over the pass. As we headed back down the steep descent, the wind whipped with specks of snow in the air and across in the other mountains we heard the rumble and Greg saw a small avalanche descend.
Our second acclimatization is deemed "Fun at 4200m". We ascended behind our guest house into the hills to a height of 4200m. We saw the blue sheep running along the steep hills, grazing amidst the rock and spooking as we came too close and dashing quickly out of sight. They looked more like a deer or a cross between a goat and a deer than a sheep. While we sat high amongst the mountains, an incredible 365 panoramic view greeting us in every direction, we decided that we should have a little fun. We started by convincing Gaby to do a cartwheel and I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story, needless to say it was a fun acclimitization hike that had us giggling the rest of the day.
It was the hindu holiday tikka, so we got to experience some of the traditions associated with it. Our guides put coloured rice on their foreheads, one of the guides sister had sent him a bunch of sweets for tikka and so we all sat down and shared what sweets we had, while they told us of their culture and rituals and we played cards. A couple of the nights the children would walk through the town and sign and dance. That was also the night that it took a long time to get to sleep and we were continually awoken during the night. Now throughout our journey we have been woken in the morning to the street dogs fighting, growling and wimpering after their growling fights were over, we have also heard roosters and many other animals, but nothing quite compares to the yak that yowelled outside our window all night long. Long, loud, mournful wailing that had us hoping for morning to come quickly.
As we ascended higher into the mountains we began to see more yaks. We watched as one waded through a rushing river, grazing in the fields, jumping down in front of us scattering stones as we ascended to the temple and we watched as one stalked Gaby and Deepak, they walked on the trail and he trotted on the hillside above, taking leaps and bring himself closer and closer to them. We were starting to get a little worried as he stood on a ledge overhead and looked around for his next landing place that just happened to be where Gaby was walking along. At the last second he turned slightly and landed behind them as they turned the corner of a huge rock face. Close call.
The other thing we noticed as we got higher into the mountains was surprisingly that the menus got larger. Instead of less and less options of things to eat, they just got pages longer, each item made individually as it was ordered. That being said, we definately had long, long lunches, as it took about an hour to get the food once we had ordered. Once the tuques and mitts came out, we spent alot of time indoors drinking tea and playing cards and one night as we sat around a huge table we found the secret to keeping warm. Under the centre of our table was a metal bin which they filled with hot coals from the fire. Around the table edge were huge, thick yak wool blankets that created a great cocoon for the heat to remain at our toasty toes. Great invention!
On Day 9 we made our way up to high camp. The path was long and narrow and we narrowly escaped beating an oncoming donkey train that would have forced us to retreat. The path up to high camp was a series of switch backs that took about 1 hour to climb up. Between the high altitude and steep climb, the trekking was tough. We finally made it and were rewarded yet again with outstanding views. Behind high camp was a small hill covered in snow, so we climbed up the hill digging our feet into the snow to trek along for our acclimitization hike. Once at the top the craggy mountains still towered around us but closer now and more imposing. The valley below was a magnificent sight and as we stood awestruck yet again, we saw a helicopter come into the town far, far below and briefly land, not even stopping its rotors before racing out of the valley. We slipped and slided back down the hill to prepare for our early departure for the pass.
The Thorong La (which means pass) is at 5416m. We awoke at 3am to have some breakfast and get ready to climb. We slept in all our hiking gear so we wouldn't have to change in the frigid morning cold. We took out our headlamps and headed up the long, long, steep ascent to the pass. Once again hours of switch backs, that had us huffing and puffing at each turn. As we climbed the sun rose around us, we were surround by snow and rock. Mountains loomed before and behind us and the sun glistened off snow. We reached the top of the pass and were met with yet another stunning view. The Himalayas that stretched before us were so different from the mountains we had just experienced. Looking back was like looking into another world. There is a monument at the top with hundreds of prayer flags. We strung ours up along the front, savouring every moment of the incredible adventure that had led us there.
Although 5416m, at this time of year, the guide said there is rarely snow and we had loads of it, so we enjoyed it thoroughly, sliding down hills, pulling each other along through the snow and savouring the beauty of the day. We still had a long day ahead of us as the long and steep descent was yet to come. It was a tricky hike down and many people slid and fell. Many of who rarely see snow. The sun created a glassy surface and one deep snow proved to be a safer bet than the icy path. We finally got through the snow and descended on a long steep dirt path, dodging donkey trains and sliding on the pebbles. A town never looked quite so welcoming as after the long day hiking up and down.
The landscape had changed quite dramatically, only glimpses of white caps remained and instead a dry and dusty land, with towering rough cliffs replaced the previous sights. We came across a dry lake that whipped up sand storms. There were holes burrowed deep into the rock face at the beginning of the Mustang Region, where people had once lived. Little green vegetation could be seen, we watched as the farmers began harvesting their crops, beating wheat, ploughing with ox/yaks, cutting rice stalks and all the other duties that come with harvest season. The sheep and cows searched for a green sprout left to eat, but I think they were not even close to satisfied. We watched as herds of sheep were moved from village to village. Gaby got to experience the Nepal version of running with the bulls - running with the sheep!
Days of hiking took us through the dry barren landscape into the orchards of Marpha and surrounding area. New mountains and glaciers appeared daily, last glimpses of the other sides of the mountains we had seen on the way up were seen. We arrived in once town to enjoy the natural hot springs. This too was a sight to behold with high hills of green trees on either side and a huge white cap dead ahead. Once again we had to pinch ourselves to make sure were weren't dreaming the beauty and serenity that engulfed us.
Our last hike up was for sunrise over Poon Hill, with views of the breathtaking Annapurna Range and the Himalayas. The last few days we hiked again through the lush green forests and rice fields. We then began our descent through a magnificent forest, with gnarled trees - it was like the enchanted forests from the fairytales. As our descent continued, we began to trek down marble steps - thousands to be precise. It was incredible, we had seen many steps around villages that appeared to be made of marble and now were descending what we were told was over 2000 steps. We crossed valleys, more suspension bridges, more streams and ended our trek in a little down with an ice cold Everest Beer.
The last morning we hiked to the bus station to ride on the roof with stuning views of the mountains to Pokhara. As we crossed a bridge Greg tossed his faithful companion from the top of the bridge into the river below. His walking stick bounced and bobbed down the river, following us around each corner singing what we believed to be "baby come back... I owe it all to you" hehehe
This journey was an incredible adventure with breath taking scenery. This is just a hint of the beauty and awe that we experienced. We hope that this has given you a glimpse of the indescribable beauty and stunning sights of the majestic mountains of Nepal - the Himalayas.
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