India and the Taj

Heading back into India we are struck by the stark contrast to Nepal. The stark comparisons between Nepal and India have become apparent as we crossed the border on trains and buses back to Delhi.  It is shocking that we have culture shock in neighbouring countries.  Once again we embarked on a the 12 hr bus, 2 hr jeep, 7 hr train station and 16 hr train to Delhi!  We have entered into a world that is full of contasts as worlds collide.  Modern technology meets age old tradion and culture, motorcycles race beside old school push bikes, cows and goats wander down dirt and paved streets weaving into traffic.  The garbage everywhere is shocking.   In Nepal we watched where we were walking to avoid cow patties, in India there is garbage and animal and human fesces on streets.  The sheer volume of people everywhere is overwhelming as you are engulfed in a sea of people.  However, the curries, naan and raita are unbelievable. 


The Kindness of Strangers

The journey from Nepal was a memorable one and not just becaue of the long haul travel.  We were so touched by the kindness of strangers that we felt we had to share this story with you.  Travelling amongst some of the third world countries has definately open our minds and hearts to the people living in the countries we have travelled into and through.   The extreme poverty and desolate living conditions have been shocking at times and the constant badgering to buy things and services from street touts can be exhausting.  We have constantly been wary of scams - having escaped a classic scam in India at the train station the first time - and consistently barting prices that we know from other travellers are obscene.  That is not to say that the people in each country we visit are not amazing.

However, on this particular day we got to the bus station for our long overnight bus to the border town.  We had specifically requested a tourist bus so that Greg's knees would actually fit between the seats and he could relax on the trip.  We arrived at the bus station only to find we were on a local bus which we paid too much for, there was no room for our bags under the bus (they just strap them to the roof and you constantly have to watch them)  and once again Greg's knees would not fit between the seats.  Out of the blue a man approached us as  we discussed what to do in frustration and encouraged us to take our bags on the bus to keep them safe - we actually thought he worked for the bus at first.  He spoke fantastic English and we were able to discuss back and forth.  We got on the bus only to find that he was actually taking the bus and that the bus driver did not want our bags on the bus.  This stranger convinced the driver and helped Greg shove the bags into a seat that had no seat in front of it and lots of leg room and then proceeded to convince the passenger of that seat that we should take it.  It was such a relief to have our bags with us so that at every stop we didn't have to get out and watch our bags - which all the locals did. 

When we arrived at 530am in the morning this stranger and his family helped us get a jeep to the border and then offered to share a jeep to the town where we would catch the bus.  He made all the arrangements and bought us a cup of tea in the process.  He walked us through to the immigration office and ensured everything was ok each time and when we stopped for a break, he bought us an Indian breakfast and more tea.   We sat with his family who spoke some English and when we tried to pay he refused.  He told us this way we don't get ripped off and he pays the local price not the tourist price.  When we arrived at the station we asked to buy his family a tea for their kindness and we all went to wait for our trains in the lounge.  During our long layover, he made sure our train was on time, showed Greg the gate, bought us more tea and his family shared their lunch they had brought from home.  This family went above and beyond and their kindness will not be forgotten.  He was insistent that there are many people who will try to take advantage of us, rip us off and exploit us for the colour of our skin and heritage, however, there are those that are happy to meet new people and share a cup a tea and kindness!

Back in Delhi

The  Taj Mahal

We headed to Agra to see the Taj before flying out of Delhi.  The Taj Mahal was built as a memorial to his wife.  Everything is based on symmetry as you can see by the 4 pillars.   It is such an incredible structure and grounds.   The building is made of marble that is translucent in the light, each detail is designed by a Mogul guild  that took 22 years to complete (working 24/7).  All the details are inlaid in precious stones - rubies, emeralds etc.  The design around the arch is actually a verse out of the Koran in calligraphy.  You don't realize it is calligraphy until you get up close.  Each archway is mirrored on all 4 sides of the building and in the entrance gate.  The marble weighs tonnes literally and they build a mosque on one side with an identical one on the other side - not because they needed two but to maintain the symmetry and to balance the actual ground.  It is definately a wonder of the world and was an incredible journey.

We went to where the marble work is done and watched the guild (a family trade secret passed down through the generations) as they hand carved each gem to become a part of their masterpiece ( the gems are cm's big only)  Their fingerprints are worn away from the stone lathe that they use to shape each gem.   It was definately a craft that takes extreme care and precision and fascinating to observe.

 

The Gate

The sandstone mosque